Lizard East

Like our other end-of-Lizard walk, this one begins in Lizard Town. It must be one of the most windy places in England, which can sometimes be a good reason to head east to the more sheltered side of the peninsula. It's surprising how the eastern coast can be so different from the west. Where Kynance Cove is a place of exploding waves and spilling spume, this is a tract of nodding flowers. In early Spring you will see any number of blooms in cosy cottage gardens that, in most places, would only flower in June or July.

Basic hike: from Lizard Town to Church Cove and then north along inland footpaths to Cadgwith before returning south via coast path.

Recommended map: OS Explorer 103 - The Lizard, - or National Trust Coast of Cornwall leaflet 15. Map ref: SW 704125.

Distance and going: five miles easy going, a few climbs, but none too steep.

Food and drink: The inn at Cadgwith would make an ideal stopover for those in need of refreshment halfway along this walk.

From the village green a small road heads due east towards Church Cove. Within half-a-mile it reaches Landewednack Church - we pass through Britain's most southerly graveyard to find the stile that introduces us to the footpath that runs north through the fields.

After a quarter of a mile the path curves around into a shallow valley. Be careful here - the right-of-way seems to vanish into a thicket. It actually continues slightly further down the valley towards the sea than you'd expect. You'll know you've got the right opening - the path is in a grassy tunnel, lined by bramble and thorn - and it takes you to the brow of the hill.

Note that all maps on this site are only indicative. You should never set out without the correct OS map.

Now the route follows a couple of hedgerows north to reach Trethvas Farm where it immediately turns right to mount one of the wide stonewalls that act as elevated footpaths on the Lizard. After a quarter of a mile this deposits you near Gwavas Farm, where it's a matter of turning right along the lane.

At the next corner you could find the footpath that leads across the fields to the tiny hamlet of Inglewidden but, when we were there, the farmer's crop had grown so close to the hedge that the right-of-way was impassable.

So we followed the lane around, which was no great chore as there was no traffic whatsoever, and soon we found ourselves spoiled for choice at a place called Prazegooth. From here numerous footpaths shoot off in all directions, but we took Prazegooth Lane which led us directly down to Cadgwith.

Beautiful Cadgwith is one of the jewels of Cornwall - not so much a harbour, more an indentation in the rocks. But what a wonderful indentation it is - enjoying a greater dalliance with the sun than any other place in the kingdom. In the mornings the south-east facing valley, with its thatched cottages and clutter of fishermen's sheds, soaks up light from sky and sea.

Walk down to the village and enjoy the sheer colour of the spectacle. About 20 fishermen still make a living from this tiny place, but today they mostly catch lobsters and crabs. Gone are the huge shoals of pilchards that used to supply villagers with a living. The old pilchard cellars have been converted to accommodation and a tea room, but there is still plenty of fishing ephemera to see.

Now we follow the coast path south, up the hill through people's gardens (it really does pass through what looks like private property, but don't be alarmed - it is the official right-of-way) to the top where the walker is introduced to the Devil's Frying Pan.

This is one of the most dramatic geological features of the Lizard's east coast - it's believed a giant sea cave collapsed long ago so that now you can look down, not so much into a frying pan, but into a deep cavernous cauldron. There's an aperture at the sea end through which the water comes at high tide, and if the wind is in the east then the whole thing becomes a boiling, seething pit.

Now it's simply a matter of following the coast path south. Past Polgwidden Cove, along Gwavas Cliff, in and around the old serpentine quarries at Parn Voose Cove and around The Balk into Church Cove. You could wander back up to Lizard from here - but take my advice and march on. You'll see the Lizard's Lifeboat Station perched dramatically with its slip in sheltered Kilcobben Cove.

Lastly, we round Hot Point and Bass Point to reach Hounsel Bay where a footpath inland will take us back to Lizard village.

Go to the top of this page

Home    West Cornwall