The web of routes and roads that lead
hither and thither across this peninsula tends to promote habits
which are sometimes difficult to break. If you live in a certain
zone, then you will be inclined to use certain roads, rat-runs
and corridors which you know from experience are the best ways
from a to b. But sometimes breaking the geographical habit can
be a joy. Such a thing happened to me the other day, opening new
horizons and providing me with a delightful walk. The adventure
occurred as I tootled through East Devon. Having covered something
or other for this newspaper, I decided to meander wherever seemed
appealing.
Basic hike: From Shute down the valley to Colyton
where we boarded the Seaton and District Electric Tram. At Seaton
we turned west to follow the
coast path to Beer. We took the same route back but at Colyton climbed
Kingsdon Hill and walked along the Axe to Whitford, passing through the
village to find the path back to Shute.
Distance and going: seven miles of easy going
walking. The Seaton and District Electric Tramway can be contacted
on 01297 20375 and
has an informative website at www.tram.co.uk
Note that all maps on this site are only indicative.
You should never set out without the correct OS map.
And so we found ourselves travelling
along the A35 somewhere east of Axminster. Shute Hill looked like
a fine eminence protruding into bright blue skies, and it inspired
me to pull off the main road and head towards the hamlet named
after the hill so that we could, perhaps, explore the National
Trust property of Shute Barton.
I'd forgotten my National Trust card so we went for a walk instead.
By following the footpaths south we were able to enjoy a fantastic
old-fashioned tram-ride and lunch at the seaside.
But first let me tell you what I've found out about the fabulous
fortified manor house called Shute Barton. Apparently, the earliest
part of the house dates from around 1380. Later the place was extended
by the Grey family who were Marquises of Dorset. They remained
until 1554, when the family fell from favour following their failed
attempt to install Lady Jane Grey on the throne. The Pole family
then took over the place and made great changes. Today, it is still
the of home of the Pole-Carew family, although the property is
now in the care of National Trust.
I look forward to returning with my
pass. I'm told the entrance hall has the largest fireplace in England
- which is saying something. It's 22 feet wide and takes up the
entire end wall of the room.
A footpath heads south of the Barton
towards Woodend Farm. This we took to reach Shute Road near Seaton
Junction. Turning right we walked along the road a few hundred
yards to cross the railway via the footbridge. Then south again
- past Lexhayne Farm and across half a dozen low watery meadows
to Road Green Farm. Basically the walk follows the valley of a
tributary of the River Coly - which in turn is a tributary of the
Axe.
We meet the former stream at the delightful village of Colyton,
and turn left following signs to the Seaton and District Electric
Tramway. This is reached within five minutes.
After a brief wait we were rattling
south and soon we were admiring the wide open, bird-filled, stretches
of the estuarine Axe. As readers will know, and as the name suggests,
the Seaton Tramway terminates at the seaside town tucked deep in
the apex of Seaton Bay.
Seaton is an odd little place and, although
I like it for its no-nonsense style, I decided to march west to an
alternative luncheon venue. The coast path is a path for just a few
hundred yards, and then it turns inland a bit and joins a road. I
am always disappointed when the coast path does this, but I don't
think there's much choice along the cliff-tops near Seaton Hole.
But soon it's path again, as we descend into the little valley of
Seaton Hole, and the climb around the headland above East Ebb. By
now we were nearly faint with hunger, but that pebbly oasis of charm
- the lovely coastal nook of Beer - was close to hand.
I love the woodland approach that
the path to Beer affords. All at once you find yourself gazing
down upon the cove - and the more you walk the more of the village
hoves into view. I don't know why, but this prospect of Beer reminds
me of certain fishing communities dotted along the Ligurian Coast.
Maybe it's the pines - perhaps it's the beach huts.
Two of us had a cheerful and honest
repast in a cafe down on the beach for less than a tenner, which
was definitely not a Ligurian price.
We took the same route back via Seaton and the tram, but at Colyton
we turned right and climbed over Kingsdon Hill to walk north along
the River Axe to Whitford. It was a matter of passing through the
village to find the path north west over the low ridge back to
Shute.
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