Friday, 21st November
The Isles of Scilly  Bryher

Bryher Christmas

The only evidence of the festive season to be found on England's westernmost inhabited island yesterday was the delivery of a single Christmas tree being hauled up the beach by local residents. Five minutes after this photograph was taken the tree - which is destined for the church, was left in the corner of a windy graveyard where it will remain until December 23rd.

The total tally of festive decorations amounts to one undressed tree, and one small artificial version which has been erected at the Vine Café. Apart from that there are half a dozen Christmas cards to be seen hanging in the offices of Bryher Boats.

Fisherman Johnny "Pots" Pender, who has lived on the island all his life, spat at my suggestion that a little Christmas cheer might be in order, saying that the islanders believe the world has gone Christmas-crackers. "Daft innit," growled the 60-year old from somewhere under his beard as 70 m.p.h. winds shook his tiny cottage, perched above the wild savagery of Hell Bay. "Come Christmas Eve I might put a few cards up, but I reckon they've gone Christmas mad on the mainland. "People here have got more sense," he insisted. "We do Christmas at Christmas - not in October."

 It's the last place in England to see the sun each morning - and it's the last place to celebrate Christmas each year.

 


Just down the road in the offices of Bryher Boats, Sam Stedeford gazed at the Christmas cards which adorn what must be one of the most scenic office windows in the world, and told me a few more decorations would be going up sometime next week. "We'll be getting into the spirit sure enough," she said. "But not just yet - we're too busy right now."

 

On the other side of the island Euan Rodger, who used to be manager of prestigious Hell Bay Hotel, (now manager of the Tresco Island Hotel) mused over Bryher's apparent dismissal of the lead-up to Christmas: "It might be something to do with the complete lack of retail opportunity here. We don't get involved with all the trappings of a retail-mad Christmas - probably because we can't."

"But don't go thinking we're a miserable lot who don't enjoy the holiday," said Mr Rodger. "We certainly make up for the fact we don't celebrate the Christmas season earlier. We do celebrate it - for two whole weeks - but the celebrations start on December 23rd. Then it's a serious case of party, party, party."

It most certainly cannot be said that the 60 Bryher residents are party-poopers. By all accounts the island revelries are every bit as wild as the vast Atlantic which raged and surged in a most dramatic fashion around its rocky shores yesterday.

However, the Bryher Christmas kicks off in a quiet and spiritual manner with a carol service in the island church on the evening of the 23rd, followed by a Eucharist which will be held the day after Boxing Day.

Throughout the holiday various islanders will throw parties in their homes and some may even venture as far as Tresco - 500 yards across the channel which divides the two isles - or to the Scillonian capital in St Mary's.

This is where the archipelago's main visual bow to Christmas can be seen in the main street of Hugh Town where the festive lights will be turned on in full blaze this evening.

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The Isles of Scilly  Bryher